Friends of Erre4m, good morning and welcome to this new post. Today we are talking about SALT.
There are plenty of proverbs and anecdotes connected with salt, but not only that: there are also many words linked to this ingredient that is indispensable in the kitchen.
In this new post we will discover how important it is, not just for flavour but also for the various roles that salt plays in the dough and in the finished product.
Unleavened bread first of all, as well as the bread made in central Italy, are two classic examples of bread without salt; but after the information we are about to read in this post, we will get an idea — without exaggerating — of just how indispensable this “small” ingredient (in terms of quantity) is to the finished product.
The salt normally used in bread making is table salt, chemically known as sodium chloride. Its quantity varies from 1,5% to 2,5% depending on the type of product being made and the type of flour used. Even so, the amount most commonly used is 2%, although in recent years bakers’ associations have been recommending lowering it to 1,5% because of the many cases of hypertension found in the population.
Adding a small amount (0,5%) of salt to the dough strongly stimulates the fermentation activity of the yeast, because it neutralises the toxic metabolites present in the yeast itself. A quantity of salt above 0,5%, on the contrary, slows down the development of the yeast cells.
If salt comes into direct contact with the yeast, it turns into a ruthless killer, producing what in scientific terms is called plasmolysis (the saccharomyces cell is destroyed by the pressure of the salt, which has a higher molecular weight than that of the yeast). This phenomenon is easily demonstrated by adding salt directly to small pieces of yeast: after a few minutes water will seep out of the yeast, a sign that the salt has broken the cell membrane of the saccharomyces. The yeast and the salt should therefore never be added to the dough ingredients at the same time; usually the salt is added a few minutes after the mixing has begun (5–7), or you can reverse the process and leave the yeast as the last ingredient to be added.
In addition, salt has a disinfectant action on the dough, because it blocks the development and metabolic activity of microorganisms. This disinfectant effect is highly positive, since it partly inhibits the bacteria and pathogens responsible for the spoilage of bread and the growth of moulds; it also partly deactivates the fermentation activity of the lactic and acetic acid bacteria, which would otherwise tend to increase the acidity of the dough, resulting in an overly pronounced taste and aroma.
Because of its ability to deactivate microorganisms, then, salt would not be advisable in pre-ferments such as the biga or the poolish, where instead the microflora of yeasts and lactic acid bacteria needs to develop; unless, as explained in previous posts, it is necessary to slow down fermentation in the heat of the summer months.
Salt also affects enzyme activity, slowing it down in general. In particular, it acts on the proteases, that is, the enzymes responsible for the proteolysis reaction — the breakdown of the flour proteins (chiefly the gliadins and glutenins) that form gluten. As a result of proteolysis, the dough softens. Thanks to salt and its hygroscopicity, however — that is, its ability to absorb water — the dough turns out more elastic and less sticky. This improvement in the dough’s characteristics makes it easier to handle during shaping, whereas a dough without salt is stickier and harder to work. As mentioned just now, salt acts favourably on the gluten, making the gluten network stronger and more resistant. By adding the salt 5–7 minutes after the start of the mixing phase and increasing the speed of the dough mixer at the same time, you can visibly notice an improvement in the consistency and elasticity of the dough. An excessive amount of salt in the dough will make the gluten network too rigid and resistant, slowing down its fermentation and worsening the quality of both the dough and the product, thus limiting its development.
When added to the dough in moderate quantities, salt has a positive effect on the characteristics of the finished product, giving it the right volume and making it soft, fragrant and aromatic, with the right colouring of the crust.
Bread made from a dough to which salt has been left out, whether by mistake or on purpose, will not only be bland: it will also tend to be flat and spread out in shape, with poor volume and an excessively pale crust. This shape results from the dough’s limited qualities (stickiness and tackiness), while the pale crust is caused by excessive fermentation; the lack of salt slows down the yeast’s activity, the dough ferments too quickly and uses up too much of the sugars needed for its colouring.
In conclusion, we can see how salt plays a central role throughout the making of bread and, more generally, of all leavened products, sweet ones included — from the mixing phase, through shaping and fermentation-proofing, to the final baking and the product’s shelf life. Anyone who has had the chance to taste and enjoy the breads of central Italy, which go well with rather salty foods such as cured meats, meat dishes and soups, will certainly not have failed to notice all the features listed above that those types of bread have: a very pale crust, a crumb that tends to crumble, a spread-out shape and a rather short staling time.
In moderation, then, but always salt!
Blog by Enrico Gumirato, pastry chef and trainer
