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The French baguette
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The French baguette

Homemade baguette with liquid biga

19 August 2020

Ah, the baguette! This iconic stick of crusty bread is far more than a simple accompaniment to a meal: it is the very symbol of French tradition. Its exact origin is wrapped in a veil of mystery: some sources tell us that the first baguettes were born in Austria, and that it was only in the early 1800s that this Viennese bread reached France, where it was reworked into the loaf we know today. 

Since then, the baguette has become an emblem of French culture — so much so that, besides being recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage of humanity, it is the star of the annual national competition held to crown the best baguette in Paris and choose the official supplier of the Élysée, the palace of the President of the French Republic.

Now that we know a little piece of its history, it is time to get cooking! Put on your apron and roll up your sleeves: today I am turning your kitchen into a boulangerie française and together we will discover the secrets behind the baguette recipe.

French baguette with biga: the ingredients

According to tradition, the French baguette must be made with sourdough starter, but you can still make your baguette with any type of dough (direct, semi-direct or indirect method), according to your preference. 

*BIGA (14–16 hours at 16–18 °C)

  • 119 g flour W 280
  • 119 g water 
  • 0.5 g  yeast

BAGUETTE

  • 275 g flour (W 260 P/L 0.50)
  • 137 g water
  • 1.5 g yeast
  • 8 g salt
  • Biga (poolish)*

Method: the biga

The biga is a pre-ferment used for indirect-method leavened doughs: it is made by mixing flour, water and baker's yeast, which are left to ferment for anywhere from 12 hours (short biga) to 48 hours (long biga).

  1. Pour the flour, yeast and water into a bowl.
  2. Work the ingredients until the dough is even: it should not be worked for long — just enough to form a small ball of dough.
  3. Cover the ball with cling film and leave it to ferment for 14–16 hours at a temperature between 16 and 18 °C — or, failing that, in the coolest spot in the house (not the fridge) — until the poolish (biga) starts to sag in the middle.

Method: French baguette with yeast

Once the biga is ready, we can move on to making the French baguette.

  1. Start kneading the biga with the flour, the yeast and 80% of the water, at room temperature. When the dough starts to come together, add the rest of the water and the salt.
  2. Let the dough rest for about 90 minutes in winter, or 45 minutes in summer. 
  3. Divide the dough into 330 g pieces and shape each one into a short loaf. 
  4. Let them rest for 10 minutes, then lengthen the two loaves to 60 cm, tapering the ends to a point.
Method: French baguette with yeast

5. Cover each piece of dough with a lightly floured cloth, then lay a second cloth over the pieces and leave them to proof at 24 °C for 90 minutes.

6. Transfer the two baguettes to a baking tray and score them just under the skin with a razor blade. 

7. If you have a steam oven: bake the baguettes with steam at a temperature of 240 °C. 
If you do not have a steam oven, heat the oven to 240 °C, put the baguettes in and immediately lower the temperature to 220 °C. Place a bowl of water in the oven and bake for 20–25 minutes.

8. In both cases, finish the last 10 minutes of baking with the valve open.

 

To keep your baguettes fresh, store them in a paper food bag for 3–4 days. Once baked, you can also freeze the baguettes and use them whenever you need

Good to know: the stages of production

To get a good loaf of bread, there are a few tricks to keep in mind, for example:

  • The dough's resting and bulk-fermentation times must be respected, so that each piece can relax properly and be easier to shape later on. 
  • The loaves should be shaped without pressing the dough too hard, to keep the carbon dioxide from escaping. 
  • The dough should be wrapped in lightly floured cloths to stop it from sticking. What's more, during proofing the flour helps form a thin crust that will be essential to the baguette's final crunch.
  • There must be five diagonal cuts, made just under the skin, parallel and of equal length. The cuts are essential to the proper development of the baguette, because they let it reach its optimal maturation, allowing the carbon dioxide and water vapour to escape. 
  • To judge whether the baguette is properly baked, check what the baker calls “the floor”, that is, the underside of the baguette. When you tap the surface, you should hear a clear, distinct sound, like a drum. The crust should be smooth, golden, thin and crisp: it should crackle under light finger pressure and be neither too hard nor too brittle.
  • As soon as you take the baguette out of the oven, move it off the baking tray and place it on cooling racks that let the remaining steam inside escape.

 

Now that you know all the secrets to irresistible baguettes, all that's left is to put on your chef's hat and try making your own baguettes! Share the warmth and aroma of your homemade baguettes with family and friends. Have fun, but above all, enjoy your meal!

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