Fermented dough: the secret to soft bread that's crispy on the outside
Fermentation – part two
In the previous article we discovered what fermentation is and what its benefits are. Today we will take a small step back to discover the historical roots of this technique, and then look at the steps to ferment our doughs correctly.
We are in the 19th century when the French chemist and microbiologist Louis Pasteur was hired by a number of French wine producers to prove scientifically why the wine of certain vintages was bad and turned into vinegar. Louis Pasteur carried out several experiments and managed to demonstrate that glucose on its own, in an airless environment, does not ferment. From freshly cut grapes he was able to cultivate yeast cells and showed that these were responsible for the subsequent fermentations of the juice extracted from the crushed grapes: it was in 1857 that Louis Pasteur put forward the hypothesis that fermentation is caused by microscopic organisms, the yeasts, which work to transform sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide.
Louis Pasteur defined fermentation as life without air, since these microorganisms are able to live and work even in environments where oxygen is scarce. Thanks to this discovery, people not only understood how to make bread and produce wine, but the way food was preserved was revolutionised and the foundations of modern microbiology were laid.
How to ferment a dough?
The fermentation of homemade bread is a process that transforms a simple dough of water and flour into a soft, aromatic loaf. The fermentation of bread is based on the activity of yeasts and bacteria which, feeding on the sugars present in the flour, produce carbon dioxide and alcohol, contributing to the leavening of the dough and the development of unique flavours and aromas.
Ingredients
To get started, you will need just a few simple ingredients:
- Flour. You can use different types of flour depending on the result you want to achieve. Type 0 or 1 flour is commonly used for bread, but you can also experiment with wholemeal flours or special ones such as spelt or rye (perfect for those who are gluten intolerant).
- Water. Hydration plays a crucial role in the final texture of the bread. The amount of water can vary depending on the type of flour used and the humidity of the surrounding environment.
- Leavening agent. You can use natural sourdough starter (pasta madre) or baker's yeast. The sourdough starter adds depth of flavour and improves the digestibility of the bread.
- Salt. Improves flavour and strengthens the gluten structure.
Procedure: part one
- Mix the flour and water. Start by mixing the flour with the water in a large bowl until you have a smooth dough. This is the moment to add the sourdough starter or the baker's yeast, making sure it is well distributed throughout the dough.
- Autolysis. Let the dough rest for about 30 minutes: this process, called autolysis, allows the flour to absorb the water completely and makes the dough easier to work.
- Add the salt. After autolysis, work the salt into the dough.
Fermentation and leavening
Before moving on to the second part of the procedure, we need to open a small parenthesis: what is the difference between leavening and fermentation?
The difference between leavening and fermentation is subtle but significant, and mainly concerns the role and activity of the microorganisms involved, as well as the specific effects that these processes have on the dough.
- Leavening is a process that occurs when yeasts, in the presence of oxygen, multiply and produce carbon dioxide. This gas becomes trapped in the structure of the dough, causing it to increase in volume. Leavening is therefore closely linked to the ability of yeasts to produce gas and make the dough "swell", making it softer and lighter.
- Fermentation, on the other hand, occurs when yeasts change their metabolism and begin to transform the sugars present in the dough into alcohol and carbon dioxide, without necessarily multiplying. This process contributes not only to the increase in the dough's volume (thanks to the production of gas), but also to the development of aromas and flavours characteristic of the finished product. Fermentation can also involve other microorganisms, such as bacteria, which can produce different substances, such as lactic acid, further affecting the flavour and texture of the dough.
Procedure: part two
- First rise. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and let the dough rest in a warm place for 2 to 4 hours (or until it doubles in volume). During this time, the yeasts and bacteria start to ferment, producing gas that makes the dough swell.
- Folds. After the first rise, transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and make a series of folds. This step helps to develop the gluten structure and evenly distributes the fermentation gases.
- Second rise. Place the dough in a proofing basket or a bowl, cover it and let it rest for another hour, or until it doubles in volume.
Soft and fragrant bread? Choose the right baking method!
- Preheat the oven. Preheat the oven to the highest possible temperature, ideally between 220°C and 250°C. If you have a baking stone, put it in the oven during preheating.
- Baking with steam. To simulate the humid environment of a professional oven, you can place a tray of water on the bottom of the oven or spray the oven walls with water during the first few minutes of baking.
- Put the bread in the oven. Turn the dough out onto a floured tray or directly onto the hot stone of the oven. Then make a shallow cut on the dough with a sharp knife to guide its expansion during baking.
- Baking. Bake the bread for about 20–30 minutes, or until it turns golden brown and the crust is crispy. The internal temperature of the bread should reach 98°C.
- Cooling. Let the bread cool on a wire rack before cutting it, to allow the crumb to set.
Making bread at home takes patience and practice, but the result is incredibly rewarding. Experiment with different types of flour, hydration levels and fermentation times to find your favourite recipe!
Blog by pastry chef and trainer Enrico Gumirato.
